PATTERN CUTTING
Pattern cutting is the first stage of creating your footwear. Traditionally and still as integral as ever, we blend traditional pattern cutting techniques with modern and stylish designs. This is where the design of your footwear really starts to take form - transforming a two dimensional sketch into a three dimensional reality.
Pattern cutting is like a blend of origami, puzzle solving and precise craftsmanship, it requires both technical skills and creative intuition.
Once your lasts are evaluated and finalised, we assess and map the footwear design onto the last, meticulously mapped out to ensure all your key foot features are reflected and considered on the design. The number of pattern pieces created will vary depending on the complexity of your design, generally patterns will be created for both the upper and the lining of the footwear. Every pattern starts from the same first step, the creation of the first pattern piece, the form (also called the Last copy). This is created by bisecting your last and identifying the central lines, it is the foundation from which more patterns evolve. After the pattern pieces have been created in brown paper, the information is then transferred into card, this gives them more durability and they are labelled with all the key construction details needed for the clicking and closing of the leather for your uppers.
CLICKING
Clicking out is the art of cutting out your uppers and linings from your chosen leathers. A skilled craftsperson called a Clicker, performs this job with precision, using a curved blade that traditionally created the signature ‘click’ sound as it’s lifted from the cut.
Understanding the texture, grain, stretch and strength of each leather is crucial. Every hide is different, a natural product renowned for its breathability and durability. Choosing the right part of the hide ensures your footwear not only looks beautiful but also performs well and lasts over time.
CLOSING
Closing refers to the assembly of all upper and lining pieces. The clicked pieces of leather are skived, shaped and stitched to create the upper of your footwear. Seams, overlays, decorative punching and perforations, as well as edge treatments are all meticulously hand crafted to complete the upper.
This is when your design truly comes to life!